Spring break trip 2023 (D4: Verdun pt2)

After Notre Dame, we took a break to get lunch together, and ate at a place called Le Glacier. The salmon crepe was good, and the galette was tasty, but I *loved* the moules.



12. Escaliers des Gros degrés. (The stairway of big steps)

This is not it -- we walked around, and asked for directions, but couldn't find it. These stairs were the closest things we could find. "These staites date back to the Middle Ages. Originally they were carved directly in the rock, as a means of access between the upper city, seat of the ecclesiastical power in the person of the Bishop, and the lower city, a place of commerce. The wooden niche containing a statue of the Virgin Mary marked the border between the jurisdiction of the lower city and that of the Cathedral chapter."

At the top of the stairs, there's supposed to be an inscription on the forged iron ramp reading “au frais de Mr Bousmard grand Prévost, Claude Amil a faict ceste besogne, 1595” (“Paid for by Grand Prevost Mr. Bousmard, Claude Amil carried out this work, 1595.)

13. Théâtre Municipal
"The work of the architect Chenevier, completed in 1893, Verdun’s theater was inspired by the Opéra Carnier in Paris. The Italian-style hall was built on the bank of the Meuse, replacing a grain market destroyed by a fire. As with the public gardens and other walks, it formed part of the works of civic improvements and urban leisure so typical of the 19th Century. Promenades, music stands, and theaters were essential features in the life of a garrison town. "

14. Citadelle Souterraine. The undergroung citadel.
"Construction of the Citadel began in 1623. At the time, Verdun belonged to the Kingdom of France, which needed to defend it against the ambitions of its great German neighbor. Following the Franco-Prussian War which ended in a French defeat in 1871, Verdun became a major garrison fortress just a few miles from the new frontier. Under 16 meters of rock the Engineers carved iyt ybderground galleries which would serve as munitions stores and barracks in the event of a new conflict with Germany. In 1916 these tunnels rapidly became the logistical base for the French Army involved in the Battle of Verdun. At the height of the Battle, on 13th September 1916, President Pointcaré was present when French and foreign medals were bestowed on the city. And it was here that the Unknown Soldier was chosen on 10th November 1920."

15. Carrefour des Maréchaux. Statues of the Marshals.

This area was under construction while we were there. "In 1959, Minister of Culture André Malraux offered to François Schleiter, Mayor of Verdun, a collection of 16 large statues representing generals and marshalls of the First and Second Empires as well as the First World War. They had originally been intended to line the boulevards of Paris. Among the historical personages represented are Cambronne, Oudinot, and Exelmans."

16. Pont-écluse St-Amand / The Saint-Almond Lock Bridge

It's difficult to appreciate the bridge's construction just by its appearance. It sits on the Saint Vanne River (above), which feeds into the Meuse (below).
"The Saint-Almond Lock Bridge is aone of three such constructions conceived by Marshall Vauban in the late 17th Century, to reinfoce the South-Eastern part of the city’s defenses. The bridge contained the mechanism to flood the upstream sector, to prevent an enemy’s artillery from coming within range of the city. Finally completed in 1867, it is the only remaining example to have survived the tumultuous history of Verdun. It is well-preserved, and the machiner to set in motion the flooding is still in working order."

17. Hôtel de Ville.

"Completed in 1623 for Nicolas Japin, supplier of gunpowder to French king Louis XIII, this superb private residence was inspired by the Parisian building styleof the 17th Century. As with eh Citadel which was built at the same time, it was one of the initial milestones in the French administration’s presence in Verdun. It was purchased in 1744 by the City Council. And it was here, where so many important decisions were taken, that the tragedy of the death of Commandant Beaurepaire was played out in 1792. The building suffered a fire in 1864 which necessitated restoring its roof. In 1916, braving the bombardments, the Sapeur-Pompier Regiment tasked with dealing with oubreaks of fire in the city, set up their base in the cellars of the Town Hall."

Nearby is the Eglise de Sauveur. It's not on the tour guide, but I thought it was impressive.

18. Place Chevert.

"Formerly known by the name of Saint-Croix Square, since 1837 this square has borne the name of François de Chevert (1695-1769), whose satue stands here, and who became Marshall of France in 1744. The square has a bronze medallion at the junction of the Pont Legay and the Quai de la République, which commemorates the heroic act by resistance fighter Ferdinand Legay. On 30th August 1944, when the American Army was on the point of entering the city, he succeeded ni disarming a German bomb placed under the bridge adjoining the square, which was the only bridge capable of bearing the weight of the American tanks. A pillar of the Librty Route marks the passing of General Patton’s Third Army on the same day. Verdun was officially liberated on 31st August 1944. " For more about the members of the French resistance who received the Silver Star, see here.

19. Mess des Officiers
"Built of piles at the end of the 19th Century, the Officers’ Mess was one of the buildings essential for the life of the garrison. It was offered to the Army by the contractors who built the forst, ouvrages and gun batteries which encircle Verdun. In 1890 the population of Verdun counted as many military personnel as there were civilians. Several barracks are still to be seen in and around Verdun."

By this point, we were both pretty tired and thirsty, so a pause for a drink seemed like a great idea.

20. Tour des Plaids
"Built in the 14th Century, it was part of the Grand Rampart around Verdun. Horseshoe-shaped in plan, it is also known as the Puty Tower. The name “Plaids” comes from the court sessions which were held in the tower during the Middle Ages."
The Puty Canal flows underneath the Tower of the Plaids, and is one of the many branches of the Meuse. "These canals remind us of the period when the tanners’ workshops, involved in work for the Army, formed an important sector of the industrial activity of Verdun."

This was the last stop on the list, so from there we headed back to tourism office... ... and went back to the hotel.